Zambia trip - April 2013

Trip report for Zambia trip

April 2013

Having never travelled to the southern part of Zambia, and particularly the Sioma Ngwezi National Park, Heine suggested we tour this part of the world, hopefully to explore in depth the very isolated, and certainly less travelled, park. With Dena's school duties, we booked her flights to both fly in to Maun and to depart from Victoria Falls, to save a few days of travel time and let her enjoy more time in the bush. With Heine, Nick and Hester on the trip with us, and other than being at the right airports at the right time, we had no fixed plans.... pretty much the way we travel.......

In order to cut down on the number of vehicles laying idle in the garage for most of the year, I had sold the D130 and kitted the LR Discovery III as an off road vehicle, complete with 4 batteries, 230l of fuel, 260l of water and most other amenities needed. Dena and I were literally packing the vehicle the day before I left, and racking our brains to ensure nothing was left behind. It is pretty difficult to pack a "new" camping vehicle and get everything right. As it turned out, the only thing we left behind was a wine bottle opener (which I suppose could be a crisis if you are not with fellow wine drinkers!)

Day 1 - Thursday 11 April 2013
Johannesburg to Khama Rhino Sanctuary

Distance travelled - 643km

After a relatively late start, we had an uneventful drive. Whereas avoiding customs and vet post officials in Botswana is the norm, for fear of your meat being confiscated, this time around it was fruit (and yes, a tomato is a fruit) that was the target. At the border, after a bit of pleading, they did not seem too fazed and let me through with all the fruit (and the tomatoes).

Khama Rhino Sanctuary is, as always, a good camping and overnight spot, with good ablutions and large camping spots. It is, however, very expensive. (P51.07pp park entrance, P62.23 vehicle entrance, P66.60 camping pppn) Despite a drive around the park, and for the 3rd time in a row, we did not see any rhino. Are there any there anymore?

It was the 1st night I was camping in the new set-up and everything worked well (and surprisingly quickly in terms of the roof-top tent)

Even 4x4s have to move out of the way sometimes!

Stand-off with Dusty (who was safely protected by the windscreen!) 

Our campsite at Khama Rhino Reserve

Always photogenic, a Southern Yellow-Billed Hornbill!

They make stick insects blerry big in this part of the world!

Day 2 - Friday 12 April 2013
Khama Rhino Sanctuary to Mankwe Bush Lodge

Distance travelled - 627km

Another eventful but long driving day, driving to Maun to collect Dena from the airport and then on to Mankwe Bush Lodge. Good roads are unfortunately spoilt by numerous "cow crossing". I would not want to drive this stretch at night. Dena arrived safely in Maun which, as tiny as it for an "international" airport, is pretty organised. Riley's BP Service Station in the centre of Maun takes RSA Visa credit cards.

Mankwe Bush Lodge campsites are, much like Khama Bush Lodge, very nice but very expensive at P150pppn.

After 2 days long days on the road, the pleasure of driving in a Discovery III compared to a D130 is immeasurable.... no sore back, no baked ankles, no frozen knees, no dust.... more than happy with the decision I made  in terms of my camping vehicle.

Day 3 - Saturday 13 April 2013
Mankwe Bush Lodge to Savuti Camp Site, Chobe National Park

Distance travelled - 130km


We were, not the only time on the trip, a little surprised and a lot disappointed. Savuti has changed and lost its charm. From being a rustic and isolated camp, it is now a wannabee thriving commercial bush camp. It is now owned (managed?) by SKL (Savuti Khwai Linyati) who obviously believe in the advantage of foreign tourists flying in. They are busy fixing up the runway and there are a number of buildings under construction. There were generators going on at all times and the water pump down by the river (which is flowing btw) was running constantly till about 10pm.

Anyway, we had nice sundowners at a nearby waterhole. There were very few animals around, although we did experience the largest flock of quelea I have ever seen!

It was during this evening that I realised my battery management system (a Genesyz) was not working. It was probably taking strain with charging 4 batteries and, as it was already in the vehicle before I adapted it to off roading, I did not have time to check it. We subsequently bypassed the system to charge all the batteries for the rest of the trip, an arrangement that worked until I got home. At time of writing, I have yet to repair the system but will in all likelihood, yank the system out and install a National Luna system.

The road to nowhere....... Savuti Plains, Chobe NP

Heine always said he had a big bone!

A lifer for me.... A Bradfield's Hornbill! 

Positioned at a waterhole to enjoy sundowners!

The always stunning Little Bee-Eater! 

Our visit to a water-hole allowed us to see 10s of thousands of Red-Billed Quelea! A very easy way to confuse a camera's auto-focus when they are in flight! 

Sunset over the Savuti Plains

Heine opening his birthday present..... a pink bush towel!

Day 4 - Sunday 14 April 2013
Savuti Camp Site, Chobe National Park to Namwi Island Lodge, Katima Mulilo, Namibia

Distance travelled - 187km

The drive out of Chobe NP was easy enough, but with very few animals to be seen.  With no border problems we found ourselves in Katima Mulilo in the early afternoon, but decided not to attempt the Zambian border post that day. We found a great camp in Namwi Island Lodge that would have been perfect, other than for noisy camping neighbours! Please people, if you have children with you at a campsite, it is YOUR responsibility to look after them. Do not send them to the other side of the campsite so their noise (did I mention they were chopping down bamboo and carving it?) doesn't disturb you. I took the registration number of the one inconsiderate family, intending to name and shame them, but I figure what's the point..... if you are so numb/dumb/selfish to see that your kids are disturbing everyone else and you don't do anything about it, my mention here won't effect your future behaviour..... a LR Defender with GP plates btw. Anyway, the campsite is great and cheap (R90pppn) and will make a great stop-over!

Don't forget to buy your Namibian vehicle insurance in Katima Mulilo at R220 per vehicle or they will not let you leave the country!

One of Dena's many butterfly pics....

Savuti camp as we knew it is no more..... it is about to get big and commercial and is already very noisy..... we certainly enjoyed the better days through the years

A juvenile Yellow-Breasted Apalis!

The beautiful and noisy Meyer's Parrot!

Our 1st wildlife on the trip.... a shy and lonesome elephant

Very nice campsite at Namwi Island Camp, Katima Mulilo, Namibia

Another very photogenic bird, the Pied Kingfisher

A pretty rare sighting, a pair of otters (not sure what breed)

Sunset over the Caprivi!

The beautiful and noisy Green-Billed Wood-Hoopoe!

Day 5 - Monday 15 April 2013
Namwi Island Lodge, Katima Mulilo, Namibia to Kabula Tiger Lodge, Zambezi River, Zambia

Distance travelled - 87km

The Wenela/Shesheke border crossing into Zambia at Katima Mulilo is the personification of African border posts. It is scruffy, dis-organised, full of hustlers and full of taxes and fees that don't make sense.

If I recall correctly, the following are payable on the Zambian side of the border, all in different rooms/shacks/containers:

Road tax of KR200

Carbon tax of US$20

Town levy of KR30

3rd party insurance of KR182.70

Remember that it is now illegal to use US$ in Zambia (other than the tourist industry who can accept US$ but cannot give change in US$) but you still need some US$ to pay carbon tax.... there are plenty of money changers at the border post so just stick together and box smart. Also remember the currency is now the New Kwacha which is simply the old one with 3 zeros sliced off the end...... there are about 5 to the US$. The old currency becomes invalid wef 1 July 2013.

Anyway, it took us about an hour to get through the process, and then we headed north. Our 1st roadblock in Zambia was like all the rest we went through.... just tell them where you are going and they wave you through. The road north from the border has recently been redone (they are still busy in places) and is a good tar road.

Our 1st attempt at finding a campsite for the night was unsuccessful as Mutemwa no longer accepts campers (and hasn't for a long time - T4A always seems to be out of date). Fortunately 10km up the road we found Kabula Tiger Lodge which turned out to be an awesome campsite. Like everything else in Zambia it is relatively cheap, always deserted of campers, and looked after by friendly people (RSA people have a lot to learn). Camping was KR75pppn with rudimentary (but clean) toilets and donkey showers morning and night.

It was around the time we arrived at Kabula that the vehicle started experiencing a severe knock from around the front differential area whenever the steering wheel was turned. After a bit of test driving we decided it would not effect our trip and I would just need to drive a little differently and limit sharp turns. Peculiarly the knocking stopped about a week later and has now been diagnosed as worn sterring arm bushes and a dodgy steering box. I am hoping this is just old wear and tear and not quick destruction due to the loaded weight of the vehicle.

The deck at Kabula Tiger Lodge in Zambia, overlooking the Zambezi River

There is beauty in the smallest of things!

Bo (Heine's vehicle) from a fish-eye point of view!

Fish-eyed fungi! And my obligatory arty shot.....

Our campsite at Kabula..... all to ourselves as well!

Another arty shot..... the Zambezi River at sunrise!

And another arty shot..... must be the fresh air! But it also shows the lack of tourism in the area. These boats looked like they had not moved in months 

Nick still hasn't given a decent explanation of the vortex effect......... but the locals must still be scratching their heads

Day 6 - Tuesday 16 April 2013
Kabula Tiger Lodge, Zambezi River, Zambia to Ngonye Falls NP

Distance travelled - 76km

We had been advised by everyone we met that we must visit the Ngonye Falls so we took the hour's drive north. The Falls are awesome and worth a visit and, after seeing the campsites, we decided to spend the evening there as well! The camps are rudimentary but you are right next to the river (and the falls) and even have your own private "beach". It really is like something out of the movies. If I recall correctly, we were only the 3rd group to visit the falls that month and the 1st campers in over 2 months!
Park entry was KR26pp and KR26 per vehicle. Camping was (surprisingly?) also KR26pppn

Last butterfly, I promise! 

The Ngonye Rapids..... very impressive when in full flow, and very isolated

Doing the touristy thing.......

The luxury shower facility at the Ngonye Falls NP... really stunning camp sites!

Just a flower......

The surreal "beach" at our campsite.... all to ourselves!

I cannot remember what this was about..... and I certainly don't want to remember either 

This photo was begging to be taken...... 

Day 7 - Wednesday 17 April 2013
Ngonye Falls NP to Camp Nkwazi, Livingstone, Zambia via Sioma Ngwezi NP

Distance travelled - 401km

The day started off with great excitement that we were going to explore the unexplored Sioma Ngwezi NP. Once off the M10, the first 10 or 15km or so was pretty decent driving on sand tracks. However, after this it started getting more difficult on very soft sand. By now we were theoretically in the park (based on GPS maps) but there was still no sign of fences, gates, or park personnel. And. of course, no animals. We drove another 10km or so, still hoping for something and finally came to a waterhole where we came across locals herding their cattle, 15km inside the park! This convinced us that the park was no more and we promptly did a u-turn and headed out.

We decided to head for Livingstone. This proved to be a long drive as the Sesheke/Livingstone road is pothole paradise, with the occasional smooth piece of tar. Don't expect to do the 200 odd km in less than 3 hours.

20 odd km short of Livingstone we came upon Camp Nkwazi which turns out to be probably the best campsite on the trip. It is part of the Kubu Zambezi Lodge setup. (http://www.campnkwazi.com/). As the place was empty (as is most of Zambia) we were provided with the best site, right on the Zambezi River, on lush green grass, under tall trees, with our own ablutions! Leon and Paul (the father and son owners) were great, and very entertaining! It is very telling that this was the only place on the trip we spent more than one night at!

Costs worked out at $67 for Dena and myself camping for 2 nights and a few drinks at the bar. I cannot unfortunately recall the exact breakdown of costs.

The other camp sites, away from the river, also look great!

The area is, by the way, a Twitcher's heaven!

The disappointing Sioma Ngwezi NP.... all we saw were a herd of cattle! The wildlife was probably eaten during the bush war

The view from the deck at Camp Nkwazi, just outside of Livingstone, Zambia!

Our awesome campsite at Camp Nkwazi! 

A rare sighting of an African Finfoot!

The local brew..... rather lekker! 

Day 8 - Thursday 18 April 2013
In and around Camp Nkwazi and  Livingstone, Zambia

Distance travelled - 0km (got a lift with Heine)

After a lazy morning and late breakfast, we did the touristy thing and went to see Victoria Falls. I have never seen the Falls in full flood, and it truly is an awesome sight and one of the 7 Wonders of the World! The noise, the speed of the water, the constant drizzle in the air are overwhelming! 

As it was Heine's birthday we also went to the Royal Livingstone Hotel for pink drinks on the sundeck. If the awesome views of the Falls don't bring tears to your eyes, the price of the cocktails certainly will! But you have to do it at least once!

Then it was back to Camp Nkwazi for a sundowner booze cruise (US$35pp). Plenty of elephants and even more birds, together with a few beers, made for a really enjoyable afternoon!

Apparently the 65kph speed limit on the road through Mosi-Oa-Tunya NP (just outside Livingstone) is strictly and expensively enforced. We, however, saw no police and were simply waved through at the park gates.

After many years, I at last got a decent shot of a White-Crested Helmetshrike....

Victoria Falls in full flow is definitely one of the 7 Wonders of the World!

Victoria Falls from the other side! 

Slumming it..... not the cheapest seats in the house.... see another picture in this set for drinks prices!

Heine and I scaring the locals!

Very easy to stay sober here.......double the KR price to get it in ZAR!

With the Zambezi in flood, these weavers must have had a panic when they woke up one morning to find their stoep under water!

Rather proud of this shot considering it was sunset on a rocking boat and I was shooting with 600mm focal length!

A "cosy" sunset shot of a White-Fronted Bee-Eater!

Nick and Hester!

Another sunset over the Zambezi River!

A very nice sunset cruise out of Camp Nkwazi!

The Hat!

A young bull showing his willy (in a manner of speaking)!

Another sunset, just for the hell of it!

Day 9 - Friday 19 April 2013
Camp Nkwazi, Livingstone, Zambia to Zambezi National Park, Zimbabwe

Distance travelled - 141km

After a great visit at Camp Nkwazi and Livingstone it wasoff over the border to drop off Dena at Vic Falls airport. The border crossing from Zambia to Zimbabwe was basically a breeze, other than a Zimbabwe customs official who wanted to charge me for not declaring a 2 plate gas stove! After a bit of polite squabbling he got bored and let me through. Costs to enter Zimbabwe from Zambia were:

US$30 Insurance (private)

US$30 Carbon foreign

US$10 Road Access Fee

A bit pricey for what was one night spent in the country.......

After a KFC kind of meal in Vic Falls (the Wimpy is not longer there :-( ) we dropped Dena off at the airport. I am not sure what I found stranger... the US$2 parking fee when there isn't much there or the fact Dena (and all the other passengers) had to remove their shoes to go through security.

Nick and Hester then left us to start the long trek home, and Heine and I decided to see if we could find a campsite at Zambezi NP. (Un)surprisingly we were the first visitors in 3 days so had the pick of the sites! At first we tried the old fishing camp but that is so run down and derelict we decided to heard further up river and eventually settled on (I think) campsite 15.... which is basically a tall tree or 2 and nothing else.

Later we had an enjoyable afternoon drive and got what women would say is lost (although we knew where we were). As punishment my left side mirror got a good smack from a local tree which was subsequently repaired with duct tape and some pebbles. Although we did see a few more animals than in Zambia, this place ain't no Pilansberg.

Nature's natural playground!

Our campsite at Zambezi National Park, Zimbabwe

A great Egret I stalked!

I can smell you! 

Just because......

Day 10 - Saturday 20 April 2013
Zambezi National Park, Zimbabwe to Itumeng Camp, Palapaye, Botswana

Distance travelled - 680km

Having already decided the evening before that, as opposed to going home via Hunters Road and seeing more nothing, we would make a dice for home to catch the F1 Grand Prix. So we were up early and away. In order to avoid busy border posts we headed towards Pandamatenga. As expected the road and the border crossing into Botswana was pretty painless. Not too much waiting as we were, after all, the first people in 3 days to cross the border from east to west! From the Botswana side of the border post, the nonsense started with confiscating meat (the same meat we had brought with us from Johannesburg). But the power of the veggie meal wins! We had bought 2 microwave vegetarian meals in Johannesburg which went with us the entire trip. On 3 occasions heading south, when asked where my meat was, I showed them the veggie meals and told them I don't eat meat. That seemed to satisfy them..... go figure.

From Pandamatenga (where the fuel station appears to be open again) to Nata the road is fantastic, although portions are still under construction. So much better than the old days.

We reached Palapaye, and our normal stop-over at Itumeng Camp in late afternoon, just in time to see the Sharks get their arses kicked again (they have DStv). It will most certainly be our last time there. I am not sure what scared/pissed me off the most.... the numerous dogs, the geese, the loud music until the early hours, the cocks crowing as soon as the music stopped or the (how shall we put this) peculiar barman (His purple nail polish was clashing terribly with his bright green blouse/vest)! Camping was P75pppn, which is reasonable, but the pub is pricey where 2 beers cost us P38!

Sunrises over the Zambezi are not too bad either!

Day 11 - Sunday 21 April 2013

Itumeng Camp, Palapaye, Botswana to home

Distance travelled - 588km

Apart from very heavy mist early on in the morning, the trip home was uneventful. Yet again, we were the only people at the Parr's Halt/Stockpoort border crossing. Does make things a bit quicker..... The road between Vaalwater and the N1 highway is now great! Now they just need to do something with the Vaalwater/Ellisras road



Summary
A great, if somewhat different trip with limited intensive 4x4ing but I was thankful to not have to dig out the vehicles at any point.

Botswana is cheap to get into but expensive to stay
Savuti as we knew it is no more
Zambia is expensive to get into but cheap to stay

Our next trip or 2 will probably be Namibia... or maybe even northern Zambia if we have the time!


The vehicle, despite the problems, behaved perfectly and it is an absolute pleasure to drive long distances in it compared to the D130. And of course, it is still one of the more capable vehicles off-road. The trip was a good shake-down for the vehicle. There is not too much to do other than improve the lighting while camping and find a shower solution (I am not keen on lugging around an ammo case of gas heating equipment. Fuel came in at 6.18km per litre, which is not bad for a vehicle that, when fully loaded, weighed around 3,800kg!

Heine's report is at http://heine9999.com/old-website-stuff/201304-zambia/