Gonarezhou trip - April/May 2012

Trip report for Gonarezhou National Park

April and May 2012

Never having been to Gonarezhou National Park before, I was really looking forward to the trip, doubly so when Dena was able to re-arrange her schedule to join us on the trip.

We were joined by Heine and Mandy in a Toyota Landcruiser Pick-up with Cab, Nick and Hester in a Toyota Prado with trailer and Damian, Lydia and Nakita in a LR Discovery 4 with trailer.

The preparation went extremely well with a few alterations to the vehicle after the previous trip and the conversion of a previous water tank into a fuel tank.

Day 1 - Thursday 26 April 2012
Johannesburg to Pafuri River Camp

Distance travelled - 667km

Temperatures - Min 12.3 Max 29.0

Up at 4am for an early start, we met up with the rest of the group just north of Pretoria at 5.30am. Then followed an uneventful trip, with breakfast in Polokwane, via Louis Trichardt to the Punda Maria Gate in the Kruger National Park. The roads were good, with plenty of overtaking spots and no stop/go points.

At the gate, and contrary to what we had been led to believe, there was no need to spend a night within the KNP before crossing the border into Mozambique at Pafuri. As the systems were off-line, and we had left our Wild Card at home, we needed to pay R96 for entrance into the KNP.

As we had not booked anywhere to stay that evening, we went to investigate the Punda Maria campsites. They were dry, hot and lifeless and looked very unappealing so we decided to move on to Pafuri River Camp, just outside the park. After putting in fuel at Punda Maria we tried the restuarant but left very quickly when we found out a lot of the stuff on the menu was simply not available......

After a short drive to Pafuri River Camp, we were set up in a very nice camp site with our own "ablution block". The whole camp is very neat and tidy. If only they could get rid of the cows with their ringing bells across the river. Camping cost R100pppn.

What I learnt today.... How quickly apathy and incompetence grows in South Africa.... the computers were down at the Punda Maria Gate.... eish, the credit card machine at the petrol station at Punda Maria camp was not working.... eish, a lot of the stuff in the restaurant at Punda Maria camp was not available.... eish. I guess the fact that I was not surprised by any of this just shows how numb we have become.

The start of our trip, at the Punda Maria Gate, Kruger National Park 

Picking up chicks in the local...! 

Our 1st Baobab, somewhere near Punda Maria 

What's a photo album without a Brown-Hooded Kingfisher?

Just a nice picture of an Nyala male!

I would also look this funny if I had so many nests on me!

One of the conditions if he was to travel with us :-)

Enough meat to feed an army!

Day 2 - Friday 27 April 2012
Pafuri River Camp to Mabalauta Camp, Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe

Distance travelled - 154km

Temperatures - Min 13.4 Max 36.9

After a rather lazy start we re-entered the KNP, and after a detour to Crook's Corner, headed for the border. Again there was no issue about spending a night in the KNP to cross the border. And again, the computers were offline so we were unable to prove our Wild Card membership. This time, however, Dena charmed the officials to the extent we were allowed in for free!

The drive to the Pafuri border post was quick, as was the processing through the South African side. So was the processing on the Mozambique side until it came to bribe time. As I was first through the administrative process I was approached by the Mozambique customs official, claiming he was prepared to settle all import duties for all our 4 vehicles at R200 a vehicle. I would, apparently, get a receipt. I stated that I could not speak for the others and would need to discuss with them first. A few minutes later the official returned and said he was prepared to now accept R100 per vehicle for import duty. Again I stated I could not speak for the others. During this time Heine was in the customs office where he was asked to pay R150 customs duty for all his electrical equipment. This he duly did, not realising what was happening outside. After hearing about this, we decided enough was enough and simply climbed into our vehicles and drove off. We were not followed......

A few kilometres after the border post there is a suitable river crossing. We very quickly learnt that heavy trailers and hard tyres are not appropriate for crossing soft sand banks. What should have been a quick and painless crossing turned into a 3 1/2 hour tragic comedy with recovery upon recovery and many lessons learnt. But all's well that ends well and we even ended up pulling a local's bakkie up the far bank of the river. After pulling a Discovery 4 with a 1 ton trailer through thick sand, it felt like a feather.

I also came out of the river feeling rather proud of myself when, after some other group in 4x4s watched us from the other bank and after we were free from the sand, drove all the way back to let me know that even though he believed I was now smiling as we were no longer stuck, I really should learn to let my tyres down. I didn't swear at or hit him... I must be getting mature or something.

Then followed a rather pleasant but slow drive through to Chiqualaquala Border Post. The administration was pretty quick and at the exit gate we met the 1st (and probably only) honest border official in Africa. He simply and politely asked me for a beer which I duly gave him.The administration on the Zimbabwe side was also relatively quick until we got to the exit gate. Again, I was in front and stopped at the exit gate first. I was asked to turn off the engine and go into the official's office where there were two people. The door was closed and I was told in no uncertain terms that unless I made a plan, and because it was late already (6.30pm), he simply would not let us through that night. After minimal bickering (I really was not in a mood to fight after a long day) I gave them R50. They then did a quick check for engine and chassis number on my vehicle and let me through. Damian, behind me, was subject to similar extortion and paid R100. Nick followed, but knowing what was going on via radio comms refused to give him more than 2 beers. Heine, behind him, simply refused to pay any sort of bribe. It left a really lousy taste in the mouth......

Not having booked any camping site for that evening (the way we like to travel) there followed a rather frantic GPS and driving in the dark on bad roads session. Eventually we ended up at Swimuwini Camp which should more correctly be called Ghost Town! The camp is clean, tidy and full of empty chalets! Not seeing anyone or any life, we decided to camp on the front lawn of one of the chalets and,as we started to set up camp, a security guard (with rifle) appeared out of nowhere and advised we were not allowed to camp at Shimuwini. He referred us to Mabalauta Rest Camp, 7km further down the road. A quick drive later and ourselves and another convoy of vehicles arrived to wake a very confused security guard. After a bit of chatter and promises to pay for camping the next morning, he pointed us to the campsites where we spent a very restful night. As it turned out, the convoy that arrived with us and ourselves were the only campers during our stay there.

What I learnt today....
1. Africa is corrupt to the bone!
2. A snatch block should be an obligatory piece of equipment should you have a winch. Never underestimate the benefit of doubling up!

They make big insects around here!

If Damian had a mafiosa name, it would be Damian the Tent Peg..... after destroying the water system at Pafuri River Camp

Pafuri River Camp communial area

Our 1st wildlife as such!

Crook's Corner, great for a picnic!

During our 3 1/2 hours of "din in the sun" in the Limpopo River!

Shrek looking relaxed n the middle of the Limpopo River

Dena pulling the landy out of the sand!

One for us old Landy typres to enjoy.... a D130 pulling a Disco 4 and trailer!

I quickly learnt that pulling so much weight can result in you digging in extremely quickly!

Day 3 - Saturday 28 April 2012
In and around Mabalauta Rest Camp, Gonarezhou

Distance travelled - 57km

Temperatures - Min 14.5 Max 36.8

We woke to find ourselves in an very nice camp. Tall shady trees, well maintained camp-sites and a not too shabby ablution block (with donkey heating) convinced us almost immediately to spend another day there. A quick drive to reception and everything was sorted. Camping is $15pppn, there is a $10 vehicle entrance fee into the park and a park entrance fee of $56pp (or something like that).

Bird life is prolific in and around the camp, including (and by no means limited to) Goliath Heron, Eastern Nicator, Pearl-Spotted Owlet, Meve's Starling, a dozen or so LBJs, and all the normal suspects like Pied Kingfisher etc 

After a lazy morning around the camp (where I discovered my ARB compressor had stopped working but had no real urge to look for the fault and where I also realised I had no front number plate) we went for an afternoon drive. Although animal life is minimal in the area, particularly with so much dense mopani bush, there are many stunning view sites to enjoy a sundowner at. Within a few kilometres of Mabalauta you can visit Makokwani Pools, Yamasikana Pools and a few other stunning places.

While Dena and I had left on the afternoon drive earlier to do a bit of bird-watching, the others had crossed the Nuanetsi River at the crossing adjacent to the campsite, only to be told by some (armed) hunters to turn around as they were busy hunting in a consession area! This does seem a bit peculiar in the middle of a game reserve......

We went to bed that night to the sound of lions very near to camp, and as it turned out, the other campers, who were only about 200m from us, had the lions walk right past their camp!

What I learnt today.... Bird watching is king! Even in a place as "barren" as the south of Gonarezhou, there are still dozens of species of birds, in every tree and around every corner!

A stunning Goliath Heron!

The colourful Golden Orb spider..... note the size of the male in the top of the photo compared to the rather massive female

A lifer for me at Mabalauta Camp, Gonarezhou.... an Eastern Nicator!

Just a cool pic of a Three-Banded Plover

We still haven't identified what the croc was enjoying for lunch.... it has been suggested it is a baboon?

Egyptian Geese take no sh#t from anyone, not even a croc!

Mabalauta camp site!

Awesome photo of a Pied Kingfisher about to land!

You see, I can photograph things other than birds!

The totally stunning Meve's Starling!

Must be a Baboon Crossing... haa haa ha!

Somewhere in southern Gonarezhou

One of the many stunning viewing spots along the Nuanetsi River within Gonarezhou

Lilac-Breasted Rollers are so photogenic!

Day 4  - Sunday 29 April 2012
Mabalauta Camp to Fishans Camp, Gonarezhou

Distance travelled - 155km

Temperatures - Min 14.0 Max 39.4

As there is (apparently?) no route from the south of Gonarezhou to the north through the park, we exited the park and headed towards the main Gonarezhou reception in the north via Boli. The road was in a relatively good condition and trouble-free. As the Rundu Bridge is still down (more than 10 years now and no hope of being repaired me thinks) we used the nearby causeway without any problems. I am not so sure I would want to try it in the wet season though.

As we had not booked we were delighted to find out that Fishans Camp was empty. We duly paid our fees of $25pppn. We did not have to re-pay park entrance fees as we had our receipt from Mabalauta. After a lunch stop at Chipinda Pools ( the campsite was empty, the ablutions looked decent enough) we made our way towards Fishans Camp. We again had problems with the trailers in the convoy during the Rundu River crossing and again I would not be too keen to do the crossing in the wet season.

Yet again we arrived at a camp site in Zimbabwe to find it had been double booked. At least the campers here were far more friendly than our situation at Deteema Dam in Hwange last year. After a little exploring, we found an awesome spot, with large trees and level ground, a few hundred meters up the river. Well worth the sacrifice despite not having the long drop (that we wouldn't use) and the braai area (that we also wouldn't use).

After a lazy afternoon the day ended with sundowners in the middle of the dry Rundu River. Sunset over the Chilojo Cliffs is stunning and must be on everyone's bucket list! After a fantastic lamb neck potjie and fresh beer bread we again fell asleep to the sounds of nearby lions and some rather grumpy elephants!

What I learnt today....
1. Zim National Parks are either extremely dumb or extremely clever....
2. Camping where there are no toilets, no showers and no cellphone or internet connections are far and few between, but that is why we go, isn't it?

The Rundu bridge, for what it is worth.... glad to see Mad Bob is up to date with road repairs, 12 years after it was washed away!

There was plenty of smiles on the trip!

The Rundu River within Gonarezhou, relatively low....

Crossing the Rundu River

We let him have a beer for good behaviour!

An awesome arty shot from Mandy!

Day 5 - Monday 30 April 2012
In and around Fishans Camp
Distance traveled - 96km
Temperatures - Min 13.8 Max 36.5

After an early rise to see a stunning sunrise and another lazy morning, Dena and I went on a birding drive. Apart from prolific birdlife, there were surprisingly many animal about, including herds of zebra, wildebeest, impala, buffalo, giraffes and plenty of elephants.

For lunch we drove to thee top of thee Chilojo Cliffs in the hope of finding Hennie Rautenbach's geocache. Alas, the bush proved to thick so we consoled ourselves by having lunch at the lookout. It is one of the more beautiful views you will ever experience and we were further blessed with a Verreaux's Eagle gliding around us atop the cliffs.

It was around this time that Nick's Prado developed gear selection problems which thanks to a satellite phone and Nick playing mechanic mechanic turned out to simply be a loose sensor near the gearbox.

We returned to camp with a troop of baboons having trashed our neighbour's camp site and in the process of trashing ours. Fortunately the only damage done was overturned rubbish bags and bins.

Another tough day in Africa when a young bull elephant nearly spoilt our sundowners in the river bed. Fortunately, when within 50m of us, and with the girls already having scurried back to the safety of the camp, the elephant climbed out of the river, nearly walking straight through the camp!

Again, Dena whipped up some magic in the "kitchen" and we were treated to pizza made in a potjie pot!

The day ended with a rare sighting of a honey badger and falling asleep to the sounds of lions again.

What I learnt today....
1. Plan and pack your food correctly and you can eat as well over a piece of burning wood as you can in a state of the at kitchen!
2. Get a satellite phone. It is priceless insurance!

Shrek looking uber-cool at sunrise!

A peculiar view of our campsite near Fishans.... taken with 360 Panorama app on the iPad!

Obligatory animal shot... considering we are in a game reserve!

The extremely difficult to photograph Brown-Headed Parrot!

On the way to Chilojo Cliffs!

Stunning shot of a Verreaux's (Black) Eagle!

At the Chilojo lookout

The view from the top of the Chilojo Cliffs! Absolutely stunning!Taken with 360 Panorama app on the iPad!

Dusty and Jager Bear admiring the view!

Sunset over the Rundu River and Chilojo Cliffs! Taken with 360 Panorama app on the iPad!

Arty shot of us enjoying sundowners in the Rundu River!

One of the better places to enjoy a sundowner! Until an elephant came and chased the girls away....

Day 6 - Tuesday 1 May 2012
Fishans Camp to Baobab Caravan Park, Musina
Distance traveled - 349km
Temperatures - Min 14.6 Max 36.8

We again woke up to the sound of lions and another beautiful sunrise!

After a quick breakfast we were on our way before 9am and, besides Nick's Prado sensor going wonky again, with a resultant stop in the middle of the Rundu River, the exit from the park was uneventful. We went via the reception to get gate passes but were told it was not necessary as we were exited over the causeway where there was no-one to check. By implication that would mean you must go via reception to get a gate pass if you are exiting to the north of the park.

The gravel road to the west of the park, where you join up with the A4 at Rutenga, is a pretty decent road, and with only one road block, was a far better experience than joining the A10 further north. Despite the reputation of the Zimbabwe police the officer who pulled us over was friendly, polite, advised me my number plate was missing and sent me on my way with a smile and no fines.

The rest of the drive to Beit Bridge was relatively painless, other than Damian and Heine picking up $20 speeding fines for doing 88kph in a 60 zone.

Just short of Beit Bridge there is a toll gate that costs $1 or R10.

Beit Bridge Border Post, on both sides, is an absolute joke and a hive of incompetence, apathy and corruption. You could get an elephant or a nuclear weapon, or both, through the border without either country knowing or caring.

On the Zim side the queues were horrendous. A foreign couple who were parked alongside us mentioned 6 hours! We duly employed the services of a "runner". The runners are very clever, rush you and always come running back for more money. Next time I will be a little cleverer with them. I am unsure how much it normally costs to leave Zimbabwe at Beit Bridge but the R800 each was, in any event, money well spent! We were through the border in around 20 minutes. Apart from getting out of the vehicle in the parking lot before the border post, we never had to get out of the vehicles, were never searched, never queued nor were we questioned by anyone.

The South African side was totally different, with (thankfully) no bribes necessary, limited queues but with total apathy everywhere. The passport stamping official had difficulty typing on her keyboard because her You magazine, that she was reading while processing our passports, was in the way. The customs officials simply waved my vehicle through. The police at the exit gate were so busy in deep conversation that they didn't even blink when I drove straight through. Like I said, I could have brought an elephant home........

Tired after a long day, Heine and I stopped at Baobab Caravan Park in Musina for the evening that, despite the name, is no longer a caravan park nor does it allow camping any more either. The chalets at R330 per couple are simple but neat and tidy.Take ear plugs as you are adjacent to the main road and the trucks don't stop all night.

What I learnt today.... Agree a total all-in price with the runners at the border post before the process starts!

Sunrise from our "bedroom" window!

That's is Dena's size 8 footprint along a lion's paw print! Found about 20m from our camp....

A herd of rather dusty Buffalo on their way for a morning drink

Obligatory flower shot form Dena!

Back across the Rundu River at the start of the long drive home

The Rundu River, wide and currently very dry!

Another arty shot from Mandy!

A rather large Baobab tree, on the A4 near Bubie Village

Insert smutty comment here!

Day 7 - Wednesday 2 May 2012
Baobab Caravan Park to Johannesburg
Distance traveled - 524km
Temperatures - Min 13.2 Max 27.0

We got off to an early start, just before 6am and had an uneventful trip home. We were pulled over in 2 roadblocks and, yet again, no-one noticed the lack of a number plate on the front bumper!

What I learnt today.... Extended fuel tanks rule! With 3 tanks in total, and nearly 270l of capacity, I drove nearly 1,400km from Punda Maria, via Gonarezhou and then all the way home to Johannesburg, and the main tank was still 3/4 full! And this was a vehicle weighing close to 3 1/2 tons and with the aerodynamics of a brick.....

Summary
Gonarezhou is awesome, one of the few truly wild and isolated places within easy reach of Gauteng. We will certainly be back! Plenty of times, there is so much to explore!